The Devil You Know
In the end we had to resort to a wildlife reserve to see a Tasmanian Devil. They are critically endangered in the wild. And mostly nocturnal, so not easy to spot. In 1996 a Devil in the far north east corner of Tasmania was observed to be suffering from a nasty facial cancer causing tumours to grow in and around its mouth. Unusually for a cancer it is infectious, likely transmissible to other animals through biting which the Devils so often do. Since the 1990s cases have appeared across virtually the entire island with 85% of the population now wiped out. It’s a painful and long drawn out death sentence for an afflicted animal. Despite intensive research there is currently no cure.
At Bonorong sanctuary, just outside Hobart, they are breeding healthy Devils to form part of an insurance population. Once the disease has run its course in the natural population these Devils could potentially be reintroduced into the wild. Tasmanian Devils can fly into a maniacal rage when threatened by a predator, fighting for a mate, or defending a meal. Early European settlers dubbed them ‘Devils’ after witnessing displays of teeth-baring, lunging and an array of spine-chilling guttural growls.
So I expected something quite fearsome, which of course they can be. They are carnivores after all. I saw one devour a dead baby chicken. It was shortly after this that Mike dropped his reading glasses straight into the creature’s pen. (Remember the first pair he lost at the Twelve Apostles?) Fortuitously the keeper had a set of long handled tongs. I despair sometimes, truly I do.
Yet in spite of their reputation Devils are also incredibly cute. Bonorong may have been an expensive day out. But it’s worth every Australian dollar for the fabulous work they do.
An echidna, now sadly three legged having been rescued after an attack by a dog. They are darker brown in Tasmania compared to my much blonder acquaintance on Kangaroo Island.
And talking of kangaroos..
One of the saddest aspects of travelling around Australia is the extent of roadkill. Kangaroos in particular are apt to launch themselves into the road with little warning and as they are also out mostly at night it’s very difficult to see them. Many of the roos at Bonorong were orphans retrieved from a dead mother’s pouch.
A tender moment belies the potentially dangerous nature of these animals too..
When provoked or protecting young a kangaroo can literally hurl itself at another, or even a man, and deliver a severe injury using the extended claw on each rear paw. Ouch. At Bonorong though, they’ll happily eat from your hand.
Tawny Frogmouth
We arrived in Hobart at an opportune time, after a somewhat easier journey than the first boats home from the annual Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race. The town was buzzing. And that was before the celebrations for the upcoming New Year’s Eve..
Sponsors and competitors gather to welcome in every new arrival. It’s one of the most gruelling ocean races there is, crossing the Bass Straight between mainland Australia and Tasmania. Home of the Roaring Forties.
“How am I supposed to keep the place clean when this happens?!!”
Harbour sculpture. Reminding us just how far south we now are.
The view from the top of Mount Wellington is one of the best ways to familiarise yourself with Hobart. It has a stunning setting, as so many Australian cities do, built around a natural harbour. Not such a gruelling journey up here though, it’s possible to drive all the way to the top. And what a lovely drive it is too. But take a coat.. it’s cold up there. Almost as windy as the Great Ocean Road. Reading glasses should be well secured.
A bird’s eye view of our next walk, around the tip of the peninsula above. The Arm End Circuit. Only a short drive from Hobart with constant views back to it, yet it feels a world away.
Pied Oyster Catchers on the beach..
Exquisite hidden and deserted coves..
Broad sweeps of grassland. Beware snakes..
Carpobrotus rossii, a common coastal succulent in Tasmania. The native pig face.
No-one has lived on the Arm End for more than a century but there is evidence of past gardens: Agave americana running wild.
Around Port Arthur, to the south east of Hobart, the coastline is different again. Rugged high cliffs, hidden inlets and features created from the collapse of a rock face under constant pounding from the sea.
Blowholes are formed when water enters a rock crevice so quickly it can only escape again by forcing itself explosively outward. It makes for quite a spectacle.
The Remarkable Cave. Waves pass right through it at high tide to lap against a glorious little secret cove.
And finally. We couldn’t leave Hobart without a garden and this has to be one of the best: the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens.
The Lily Pond
Masked Lapwing, flitting anxiously around the lawn.
Perhaps this was why. Masked Lapwing chick. Say aahhhh!
Jacaranda mimocifolia, a late Spring flowering small tree that we saw everywhere across southern Australia.
The strong Australian sun glowing through the fleshy leaves of Aeonium arboreum ‘Schwartkopf’.
Clematis viticella ‘Alba Luxurians’
I had this once. It’s a gorgeous variety. Funny that I had to go to the other side of the world to be reminded of the name. Back on the list for this year.
In fact so much of the garden has an English flavour, this particular border a nod to the style of Gertrude Jekyll, it almost made me homesick. Almost. And for an England in summer, I hasten to say.
I apologise for the gap between posts. Internet access continued to be patchy along with a growing sense of time passing and a need to make the most of the remaining days in Australia over and above the unequal struggle of editing WordPress on an iPad. I’ve got so far behind we are in fact now back in Blighty: cold, wet, wide awake well before four in the morning and asleep by four in the afternoon. There are two or three more posts to wrap up the journey, if you can bear it, before we return to matters at home. No, not Brexit. Enough already!
Sounds like a wonderful time and lots of memories for you and hopefully some good weather to get the garden back in shape
The garden certainly needs getting back into shape, it’s had quite a battering while we’ve been away. But it could do with drying out a bit more first!
Ah glad to see the posts.. I was hoping there would be more.. I will never get to Australia and New Zealand or Hobart. my son, daughter-in-law and granddaughter have been (and son and daughter-in law have sailed to Antarctica on a research vessel from Hobart one time and Christ Church another)..I live vicariously through all of your photos and adventures I have been to Devon though!
About three more posts I reckon, as long as all the photos came out. Antarctica would be a dream destination for me but as the only way is by boat it isn’t going to happen. Plus it’s a tad cold!
Where did you go in Devon?
Lovely photos as always, NZ looks amazing. Very said to hear that the TD is endangered, enjoyed seeing the wildlife especially the Tawney Frogmouth. Welcome home x
Thanks. Would be good to catch up with you soon. Glad to hear from TT you’re back on your pins.
I enjoyed reading about the Tasmanian leg of your journey, Jessica. It’s tragic what’s happened the TD, and I hope that the plan to save them is successful. I believe there’s a disease free small island off the coast of Tasmania which is successfully stocked with them.
We were distressed by the amount of road kill when we took our trip to Broken Hill: it’s worse, I think, when there’s drought, which is certainly what we’re suffering now. We don’t drive at night if we can avoid it.
Isn’t jet lag a drag? Cups of tea in the middle of the night! Worth the inconvenience though.
I think it’s Maria Island that is the sanctuary for healthy Tasmanian Devils.
Jet lag is a real drag. Just as I thought I was getting over it it’s back today with a vengeance. I am trying to stay up as long as possible but the will is fading!
I hope you’re managing with the heat wave. Sad to hear the drought has returned after the little bit of Spring rain.
I loved every photo. I will be looking at these again and again. The animals are sweet, the scenery breath-taking and the flowers beautiful. I hope you relish every second of this trip. Thanks for sharing your adventure.
It’s a wonderful record for me to look back on too, that’s another reason for finishing the story.
Lovely photos but glad you didn’t have one of an actual snake. I had a Jacaranda once but sadly it died when we went on holiday one year – have never seen another one here to buy. What a great adventure – you have missed your calling as a tour guide Jessica.
Well if Australia wants to employ me I’d just have to go back now wouldn’t I.
I only saw one snake, way back in the first week and only then for about two seconds as it slid away. Luckily Mike didn’t see it or there may not have been a second week. The trick apparently is to walk heavily or in some other way make a noise. If they know you’re coming they flee. It seemed to work. That and sticking to wide paths wherever possible.
A lovely tour around Tassie. Thank you Jessica. And welcome home. Always hard to arrive back to an English winter from the land downunder!
Isn’t it just! I seem to have timed it just as the weather is getting colder as well.
Another great post… you must be exhausted, not only from jetlag, but from travelling the length of Australia! It is lovely to see it from your perspective. Canberra ( with bush between the suburbs)has tried to address the amount of kangaroos killed onthe local roads by building huge fences along the busiest roads.. very costly & controversial but it has reduced the amount of wildlife killed considerably… a very unique Aussie problem!
In retrospect we packed in far too much. But there is so much to see! In eight weeks we had just one and a half days when we didn’t go out exploring and both of those were weather imposed. Next time I will plan in more rest days although I do believe I’d tried to do that this time too.
Those fences would need to be huge, having seen how effortlessly a kangaroo can leap an obstacle. It made me very nervous being out near dusk and dawn but thankfully we didn’t have any problems.
Keep those posts coming on whatever schedule works for you! The plight of the Tasmanian Devil is a sad one but then endangerment of animals both domestic and foreign seems to be an all too routine story these days. I loved the photo of the cozy kangaroos bit appreciated the warning too – those feet! The scenery around Hobart was incredible.
I wasn’t prepared for how much I would like Tasmania. I feared the weather might be chilly and it was at times, but the stunning landscape certainly makes up for it.
Wonderful journey. Thank you so much for sharing it. Road kill here is mainly the invasive, non-native squirrels, but the Aussie kind is tragic. Beautiful Devils.
It is tragic. And a hard problem to resolve unless, as Gerrie comments above, high fences are erected everywhere.
Welcome home. Another stunning post – not enough superlatives to cover the wonderful pictures (thanks Mike) of flora and fauna.
We took so many pictures between us, some had to come out OK! But Australia, and especially its flora and fauna, does provide ample opportunity for the photographer.
Hmm, where did that comment go? Try again . . . welcome home, and thanks for such a wonderful visual tour. Not enough superlatives for the gorgeous flora and fauna you have shared.
I think it was because you’ve changed your email address, even if only ever so slightly. WP saw you as ‘new’ and put you in the moderation queue. Should be fine from now on.
What wonderful photographs you have of what looks to have been a brilliant trip. I hope you manage to throw off the awful jetlag soon. x
I’m ready for the jetlag to go I must admit! I woke up with so many good intentions this morning and didn’t have the energy for any of it. Maybe tomorrow.
Welcome back from a grand tour! Thanks for sharing so much of it with us in photos and, as always, your wonderful, humour-filled and educational text. Suggest you buy Mike a glass string holder to wear around his neck on the next trip to save you both from the vexation of his free-wheeling glasses. Somehow, I doubt Mike would be amused. Hope jet lag loosens its grip on you soon and returns your body clock to more sociable hours. Just returned to US from UK/IRE myself, so I am in touch with the feeling…just not as wicked as yours, I am sure.
No, he wouldn’t be amused but we have to do something!
I’m sorry you’re also suffering body clock woes but I hope you had a wonderful trip. It’s a long time since I’ve been to Ireland, it’s a beautiful country.
I’ve enjoyed your Australian tour, especially the bright sunshine illuminating the grey winer days here. Particularly enjoyed today’s post as we’re off to Tasmania next month. Hope the jetlag soon wears off – at least the days are getting longer.
I would go back in a nanosecond so I’m very envious of your upcoming trip. There are some fabulous walks, all over the island. I’m sure you won’t make the same mistake I did and underestimate how big Tasmania is. It takes a long time to get anywhere but always worth it. It’ll be warming up nicely too by next month. Have a great time!
Lovely photos yet again. The story of the demise of the devils is just so sad.
It’s very sad. But hopefully there is a brighter future.
Wonderful account of this leg of your trip.
Thanks Christina.
Hope you are recovering from the jet lag. You are wise to focus on the holiday than getting back to reality , you have missed much while you have been away! Amazing to read about the Tasmanian Devils they obviously hadn’t heard about the attraction to animals that you and Mike have back at home! Those bays look beautiful the views were amazing too. Sarah x
The jet lag is taking a long time to shift this time. It’s been a week and although I’m now awake ‘normal’ hours, sleeping at night is still a challenge. I bought some freshly homemade lavender sachets in Tasmania though and they do seem to be working.
Tasmania looks wonderful. I love the animals and birds. I have enjoyed my vicarious trip with you, and what amazing photos. Welcome home.
Thanks. If only the weather was similarly welcoming!