Awesome and unspoilt
The British Airways captain was a jovial sort. “It seems there’s quite a bit of snow in Oslo this morning. But not to worry, we’ll just have to circle for a bit while they send the bulldozers up the runway. They know how to ‘do’ snow in Norway..” And sure enough, after a few minutes of cruising in a wide circle above the clouds, the cabin crew were asked to make ready for landing.
If the cloud layer was anything to go by, there would be a lot of snow. The landing gear had lowered with still no sign of the cloud bottoming out. I tried to think positive thoughts about modern automatic landing technology and not about a plane that (I read) had skidded straight off the tarmac at Stornoway, Scotland just last winter. The world re-emerged as a forest of snowy conifers about 50 feet from the end of the runway, almost stroking the underside of the fuselage.
And then, what looked like ants. Yellow ants, hordes of them, swarming over the taxi ways, the aircraft stands and heading in sinuous convoys back toward the runway. Each with a yellow light atop, bodies segmented into three clear parts for ploughing, sweeping and blowing snow away from the tarmac. It’s been described as a ballet and it’s clearly a well choreographed operation. There are even videos on the internet but to see the performance for real is quite incredible. As we approached our stand after a perfect landing the pilot turned the intercom back on. “All this snow and only ten minutes late.. this lot would have shut Heathrow for weeks.”
Several of the photographs in this post appear to be shot in black and white.
They’re not. It’s the perpetual twilight at this time of year.
Landing in Oslo was only the start of our journey. We were booked on a connection to Tromsø, another 1 hr 40 minutes farther north. I’d insisted to Mike that it be a ‘proper’ plane, sometimes the means of transport to far flung destinations can be on the small side and with those whirring crisscross things where a modern jet engine ought to be. He’s a bit of a geek is Mike when it comes to planes and having done the necessary research assured me that it not only met my specification but in addition came with ‘winglets’. A fully matured set of wings would have been my preferred option but there you go. Still, plenty of time yet before the flight, a spot of airport shopping maybe and then a leisurely coffee in the lounge. I do love it when travel can be conducted in such a relaxed fashion, don’t you? We’d just check in our suitcases first and get them out of the way.
“Ah, but..” the helpful SAS clerk swung round her screen so we could see.. “there’s an earlier flight, would you rather go on that?” At Tromsø we still had in front of us a three hour drive to the hotel. Unknown roads, in the snow and in the dark. It was a no-brainer.
“OK. Departure 11.45. Boarding 11.20.”
Mike looked at his watch. “11.20. As in… now, this minute?”
“Yes, of course.” Not the slightest hint of urgency.
We hurtled across the departure hall toward security. There was a queue. Of course there was. And everyone was having a problem of some sort with their luggage. Perhaps it was our already frazzled look or the frantic waving of boarding cards, but we were ushered into a shorter line, the ‘family’ queue. And what do families with young children carry with them in abundance? Bottles. Bottles full of liquid. Each was having to be scanned and rescanned, taking twice as long per person as the queue we’d just left. And was the plane’s allotted departure gate the nearest one to where we then were or the farthest one away? Yep, you’ve guessed.
The snow capped peaks near the Lofoten Islands at sunset (lunchtime). And plane, with winglets.
I may have partaken of a glass of wine.
The following morning we set out to explore. The scenery is just so incredible up there. Words cannot properly describe it. These are the Lyngen Alps.
Alongside the roads, waterfalls..
..frozen in time
Mike was delighted when we came across this scene..
“There you are.. you wanted a beach?!!”
I took the shot from inside the car, camera lens balanced on the wing mirror, heated seat on max. The temperature on the dashboard display was -7C. It didn’t mention the windchill. The light was rapidly fading. No skinny dipping then but, oh, what a glorious place.
Just up the road from the beach, the fjord gives way to open sea. A sea which leads into the Arctic Ocean.
Next stop from here? The North Pole.
For somewhere so very remote there were more houses than I’d expected, this one a traditional Norwegian style.
The lovely lady who prepared our breakfast every morning was full of fascinating information. She told us that many houses were originally painted this deep red colour. Social climbers then opted for white. A mark of status, it was more expensive and presumably needed repainting more often.
As you can see, in more recent years the Farrow and Ball colour chart has arrived in the Arctic Circle.
This was Skjervøy, a pretty fishing village
It is reached by a road stretching across a chain of islands linked by tunnels and a bridge.
See the bridge in the far distance?
Single track.. start off across it and hope. Although a cunningly concealed passing place does reveal itself half way down. And, it’s fair to say, there isn’t exactly a rush hour in these parts. One of the tunnels passed directly underneath a fjord, the road descending steeply into the bowels of the earth with only the merest hint of a levelling out before ascending at an equally impressive gradient to reach the other side.
My next project?
I loved the shed/privy with the heart shape cut in the door.
There is little evidence of gardening this far north. Locate field, build house, leave the rest as you find it. At most, a few shrubby things planted to mark a boundary. I guess the winters are just too harsh and summers too short.
And when the weather closes in, it really does..
..leading to some quite spectacular effects
Winter comes to everyone
Linking to Elena (here) at BlogShareLearn, weekend Linky Party
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Wonderful photographs; and I enjoyed the Farrow and Ball joke
Thanks Derrick. Reminds me it’ll soon be time to start decorating again 🙁
My goodness what an awesome landscape and captured brilliantly by you through photos and text. Thanks for sharing this stunning holiday.
I’m so glad we did it (rather than the Caribbean), in spite of the cold and the lack of light I was sorry to leave.
Oh wow. Just, wow. What an experience. What a place. And what fabulous photos. Thank you for sharing, that’s probably as close as I will ever get!
It’s a lot easier to get to than I thought, flight to Tromsø is much the same as going to Inverness. In fact Tromsø is like Inverness in many ways.
What can I say it looks spectacular thanks for sharing
It truly was. Thanks Ann.
Stunning pictures Jessica. I think you have to be a different breed of person to live in that climate!
Agreed. Although the midnight sun must be something. Payback time.
Lovely photos, but all I could do was shiver at the coldness which you captured so very well and which seemed to leap off the computer screen at me! Glad you got there and back safely.
It seemed a lot colder than it actually was at times too. I felt like the Michelin man I had so many layers.
WOW! That is utterly, breathtakingly beautiful. Stunning. I don’t have enough superlatives. And you made me laugh as well with the winglets and Farrow & Ball colour chart. I’m glad you had such an amazing time. Your photography is fabulous. Again, WOW! CJ xx
I have now added winglets to my list of a plane’s must haves. Can’t say I noticed any aerodynamic benefit, but they look the part don’t they? Thanks CJ.
Beautiful photos as always. And what an amazing place; so picturesque. It must be such a totally different way of life when sunset is at lunchtime….must make wine o’ clock very early in the day with all that darkness 😉 xx
In a bid to prevent liver damage I did try to stick to my normal schedule! So strange though to have it getting dark by lunchtime. We went out straight after breakfast and drove somewhere until it started to get dark before making our way back, that way we made the best of it and still had a very long, relaxing afternoon and evening. A very different way of life indeed.
Makes me want to go there! I’ve only ventured to Bergen and surrounding area but this looks stunning. I rather like the idea of a just building a house and not having a garden – think of the freedom, not only in time but of having no boundaries and being part of the landscape.
Another place to add to my wishlist.
It does add to the unspoilt feeling of the landscape I must admit. There are places where they are building new tunnels and that’s all a bit messy but overall the footprint seems light.
I’m SO jealous! Fabulous photos and we must get together before Christmas……or possibly afterwards looking at the depressingly full calendar. So pleased you’ve had such a fantastic break. I’ll email you….x
Thanks Em, it would be great to meet up! Let me know.
What stunning photos, I ‘ ve never seen a landscape quite like this before, it is so beautiful. But I do hope you took your wooly underwear.
On one particular day I was wearing leggings under ski pants, two pairs of socks and about four different layers under a coat. And it was still cold. To live out there I’d need a whole new wardrobe.
I bet the air smelled fresher than fresh. Love the frozen waterfalls. Reminds me of Narnia.
There’s a mother of all frozen waterfalls coming up in the next post. Not quite Narnia though.
Oh my goodness, such utter beauty, your photographs are stunning too. I spend a lot of time showing my husband your project and trying to persuade him thats the life for us, I will now be showing him your holiday too! You and Mike must really feel like you’ve had a proper grown up holiday. Just lovely!
It did feel a lot like that. Met some interesting people too. The hotel was very small and with everyone eating together round the same table we couldn’t help but get to know our fellow guests.
I can so totally relate, I grew up in Minnesota here in the states. It is said that when Norway had problems and a portion of the population chose to emigrate that they searched the earth looking for someplace as cold and “God Forsaken” and they chose Minnesota…The joke is that when people from Norway choose to vacation they come to Minnesota because of the familiar cold snowy winters and that in some way they are related to almost everyone they meet.
Lovely story Charlie! I didn’t know Minnesota was so cold. Having just looked it up on the map I can now see why. But I envy you in the States and Canada. You have proper snowy winters. With blue skies in between the snow showers. It’s the eternal grey, wet miserable stuff that the UK serves up that I just can’t stand.
Stunning, crisp images, thank you. The way the colours pop in the fishing village photo is incredible, lots to be said for prolonged twilight and the contrast/reflection snow provides?
On our last day sunrise and sunset joined up and the sky was pink all day, or what equates to a day in daylight terms. It was amazing how the light changed, especially as there had been snow overnight which reflected the sky. Every afternoon when we got back we loaded a few of the photos on to the iPad to take a closer look. I still have them and the snapshot of each day in the thumbnails is incredible.. a totally different colour palette.
So amazing to see these pictures. thank you. I’ll never see Norway in person so this is really a wonderful thing. Is it that darkish all day??
Thanks, and welcome!
Around the summer solstice it doesn’t get properly dark at all there, the land of the midnight sun.. but for 7 weeks in mid winter they don’t see the sun at all. A couple of hours of deep twilight and the rest is totally dark. It would take a hardier soul than me.
I love it when it gets (a bit) like this here in Scotland in winter but that’s because it only lasts a few weeks at most. They must be hardy and so resilient to take that all winter long. Thanks for sharing your brilliant photographs.
It’s a different way of life for sure. It has a sort of romantic charm to an outsider, but I think the novelty would wear off pretty quick.
Quite right too on the wine front. If anything demands wine, it’s flying on a plane with winglets. But wasn’t it worth all that travelling? Isn’t it beautiful!? I love the bright colours of the fishing village in contrast to the landscape and light. What a holiday!
It was worth it and it is beautiful. Such a surprise to come across the fishing village after a long drive through such a remote landscape. I bet the community spirit there is fantastic.
Lovely. lived in Norway for 3 years in Oslo. Had a cruise up to the Lofoten Isle about 10 years ago and going again next year for the 50th! all the way to the top this time.
Yours.
Sue.
Oh wow! I really envy you, I’d definitely want to go back. For the midnight sun next time maybe, although the northern lights were a real highlight of this trip. We also spent a day (only a day 🙁 ) in Oslo on the way back which I’ll post about soon.
We fell in love with Norway when my son and his family lived there for 5 years. I don’t ever remember him not being able to get to work because of snow, they have all the right equipment to deal with it instantly and everyone has snow tyres on their cars by law.
They don’t have great potholes in their roads either caused by the snow because they use the more expensive asphalt instead of tarmac.
Lovely photos even though the light was low.
The roads were a bit hairy at times, especially when it started snowing very heavily, but we were advised to get studded tyres and that was such a good call. I don’t think we skidded once. Mike will say it was his excellent driving (of course) and credit where it’s due. In all the times I’ve driven around Scotland I’ve looked at the snow poles and wondered how effective they would be. Now I know. Driving back to Tromsø from the hotel we started out with perhaps four inches of snow.. by the time we reached the airport the snow poles were the only means of knowing where the road actually was.
I have not made it to Norway, but again was struck by how much it looks like Alaska. You captured the winter light and the feel of the low hanging clouds really wonderfully. It transported me back to Anchorage winters, which alternated between spectacular beauty and long stretches of gray and gloom. I have to say, after many years of living in far North, I came to find the winters too long and dark. Your photos illustrate how starved for color and scent people in the far north become after months on end of winter. Time to head to Hawaii or Spain. Or maybe time to paint the house.
Our lovely breakfast lady did say that winter is the time most people travel. And at Tromsø airport there were two charter flights to the Canary Islands in the space of an hour. I can’t say I blame them! I must go to Alaska though.
In Alaska, we had inexpensive winter flights to Hawaii and Mexico. There was an annual migration. What a feeling to step out of the plane in Hawaii after months of monochromatic winter, to vivid colors, warm moist air, and fragrant plumeria. Still, Alaska is an amazing place and definitely worth a visit (or several).
I can just imagine that. Hawaii would be a mighty relief from the British winter as well!
Are you sure this was a privy? They must freeze their butt in there 🙂 Unless they have those Japanese heated toilets? And I could not possibly take the cold and lack of light. But it is extremely beautiful, and quite wild still. Lovely photos!
Hey, they’re hardy up there right? Isn’t this the land where they spend an hour in the sauna and then fling themselves in the snow? After that a frozen loo seat is nothing. 🙂
Absolutely stunning!!!! It is so very beautiful isn’t it, but it looks incredibly cold. I also would have wanted great big wing wings, not winglets! Glad that you had a great time and that you could share it with us. xx
Thanks Amy. It was certainly an experience. A good one.
oh thank you thank you thank you for sharing these incredible photos. I’ve been checking every day since you said more were coming! …No wonder you got out your knitting needles and yarn. That’s mighty COLD country up there!!!! Glad you were inspired.
The needles have arrived today.. aren’t they pretty? Can’t wait to try them out. There are HUGE yarn shops up there. Well, what else is a girl to do if it’s dark all day? More posts coming up. Thanks Steph.
I guess you would get used to the lack of light if that is all you have known. It has been twilight here all day for the past few days so I can relate! Your photos are stunning, what a truly beautiful and unspoilt place.
Very dark here today too, reckon I’m acclimatised now. Made me think how high the energy bill must be in the north of Norway. At least they’ve got oil.. for now.
Wow – it looks stunning. It was lovely to see something so different and photographed so brilliantly.
Thanks Annette. Certainly different, holidays may never be the same again.
Really stunning scenery. I live in an area that is heavily Norwegian. Every May 17 Norwegian Independence day is celebrated. We don”t get quite so cold and no mts.
I hadn’t realised quite how Norwegian the northern States are until reading Charlie’s comment above. Isn’t it fascinating how people migrate around the planet.
That was a wonderful post, Jessica – I love the dramatic landscape of Norway. Granted, I’m a Swede, and it’s not quite as dramatic there ( just as dark, mind you), but I really miss the white winters. Here in winter-gray Portland, OR, I get my snow kicks on Mt Hood, but even there, the sky is usually blue, and not that frosty pink. Lovely photos – you actually made me a little homesick!
Portland sounds very similar to here. Going back a few weeks the forecast was for a snowy winter in the UK so we’ll have to wait and see. I love all the light from the freshly fallen snow, but it never lasts very long. Before we know it we just have a lot of dirty mush.
Absolutely gorgeous scenery and your photos are incredible. Although I’m Scandinavian (Finnish and Swedish) by ancestry, I’m a Southern California native and can’t even begin to imagine navigating that environment, fairy tale beautiful as it is. Accompanying you on a photographic journey is enough for me. Thanks for sharing your trip!
We were up near the Finnish border at one point (next post). Away from the coast and at a higher elevation it was seriously cold!
It is incredibly beautiful, and your photos are stunning! Sounds like it was a very rewarding trip. I’m told that Scandinavian winters are similar to our colder winters here in the northern Midwest, but our summers are much warmer. Thanks for sharing highlights from your adventures!
It was a different kind of holiday, well away from the usual tourist hotspots and chosen as much for safety as anything else in these unpredictable times. But very rewarding indeed to see such a stunning part of the natural world.
I love the beauty of the far north which you’ve captured so well in your photos! I’ve never been to that part of the world but am from Alaska and your post made me a little homesick. What an interesting place to visit at this time of the year. It does look very cold but as the salt water harbor is still clear, I’d imagine it’ll get much colder later in the season. Thank you for taking us along of your adventure!
Down to -40C I believe which would definitely be too cold for me! The fjords were starting to freeze over at the far reaches where presumably there’s less tidal influence.
Wow, wow, wow. Just amazing. I was wondering if the first two photos were in black and white or not; couldn’t decide. Your photos are incredible and (as always) you have written in such an evocative way that I actually, nervously, feel I want to go there. But I do need to check, from one cold-hater to another, are you just tricking me or is it really, really worth the temperatures to experience the rest? I was also talking to Paul earlier in the week about a trip to northern Scotland to see puffins in March. The things you make me do, Jessica!
It was definitely worth it, but winter hadn’t really got a grip late November and it’s still just about bearable with the right clothing, especially if you stay close to the coast. Jan/Feb it will be down to -40C. I think I’ll pass.. I would like to go back in summer, but as it never really gets dark then it wouldn’t be possible to see the northern lights and that would be a shame. Puffins, unmissable. They return in March, so maybe not too early in the month to be sure of seeing them.
What an amazing trip you had, by the looks of it. Hopefully your feeling refreshed and energised by all the fresh air, ready for the next project! Some fantastic photography, as always. X
No shortage of fresh air for sure. The wind and rain here has pretty well scuppered doing much in the garden since we’ve been back and cabin fever is looming! Thanks Hannah.
Superb photos, heart-stoppingly lovely scenery, thank you. And it does put our cold winters into perspective, doesn’t it?
It does. But after a fresh fall of snow it did look very pretty. I miss that down here.
Simply stunning. You must be very brave, Jessica, to take on an adventure such as this.
To be honest I expected it to feel more remote than it was. Quite a few people live up there which means the roads are regularly ploughed and it’s relatively easy to get around. But it isn’t proper winter yet. I did see gated roads, there must be plenty of communities cut off when the weather gets really bad.
Fantastic rd, what scenery, I would love to see it just after the spring thaw when all the flowers should emerge. Who needs a beach!
That would be quite a sight wouldn’t it. I thought the same visiting Switzerland in late summer, we were just a little too late even though the scenery was spectacular.
Absolutely gorgeous!!! I love the winter (this may get some moans), but I try to enjoy and appreciate all the seasons given to me, and thankfully, living in Montreal, Canada, we have 4. 🙂
Hi Linda and welcome.
If our winters were more like yours, proper light reflective snowy ones, there might be fewer moans from us Brits at least. But having seen how it’s done in Norway I must try harder this year and accept winter as time for a bit of a break, more relaxing in front of the fire and less grumbling about the wind and rain!
I’m probably reiterating everything that everyone else has said (haven’t read all the comments yet) but WOW – what absolutely beautiful photos. That first shot is a corker. It looks an unbelievably awe-inspiring place. I hope you feel completely invigorated after your holiday.
That first shot is our favourite. Mike stopped the car in the middle of the road when he saw it and got out complete with tripod. It’s lucky there isn’t much traffic up there! It wasn’t the only time either. We felt quite cheated when we got back to main roads and had to look for places to pull over.
beautiful photos Jessica, interesting to hear of somewhere getting less hours of light than here, but, did that mean you didn’t have much time to see things, or, was there wonderful full moon and no light pollution, a full moon here is almost like daylight and with the snow reflecting it there, it would be daylight, see any northern lights? I like your future project and I was thinking I love the loo with a heart then read your comment, I always think old houses have stories too, glad you had a great holiday despite the lack of hot sun kissed beaches, Frances
The moon was about half full but I don’t remember seeing much of it. There were only two clear nights, on both of which we saw the northern lights (for which the moon would have been an encumbrance). That old house is beautiful isn’t it? Fjord view as well. If only Norway wasn’t so incredibly expensive.
What a fabulous place ! And your photos are fantastic too Jessica. Looking forward to hearing more of your adventures
Thanks Jane.
Wow that looks absolutely amazing and that light just adds to the atmosphere. I also wondered how you got on with the roads but see you mentioned it in Rosemary’s comment. Those red buildings look stunning against the snow. Would a cut out door allow some friends of yours inside? Sarah x
Any cut outs would need triple glazing as a minimum!
The place looks stunning.The thought of all that snow has made me feel chilly.
It was pretty cold. Not sure I’d cope with it in the depths of winter, we have it easy in comparison.
There was nothing for it – I had to look up ‘gardening in Norway’. There’s a surprising quantity of Norwegian agriculture, albeit of limited variety and horticulture under cover is increasing. I guess in northern Norway you don’t feel the need to enclose an area of garden which will only grow the same type of plants that already surround your dwelling. Did you get to visit the Botanic Garden in Tromso?
We didn’t have any time at all in Tromsø which was a shame. I toyed fleetingly with the idea of the Oslo Botanic Garden, which was actually open, but it wouldn’t have been a long visit with us only being in the city for a day. Next time!
Wow – what breathtaking beauty! We’ve had heart shaped window envy since we saw a camper van parked next to ours with yes …. heart shaped windows:)
I presumed the cut out was to let light in, I can’t think of any other reason why anyone would want a hole in a door in that climate, especially if it was indeed a privy!
Dear Jessica, breathtaking photos, simply stunning! Norway is indeed incredible beautiful, but wouldn’t be for me at this time of the year just because of the cold and the short days in the winter. So I prefer to sit back, relax and enjoy it through your photos ;-).
Warm regards,
Christina
The novelty would wear off for me pretty quickly too. I think I’d have to hibernate through it all. Or travel, which is what a lot of north Norwegians do.
The beauty of the place just takes your breath away.
It does. The beauty and the cold!
What a wonderful trip! The journey to get to see such incredible scenery was worth it and I’m sure you met some interesting people; Norwegians and other travellers. I like the idea of being in the far north where you can take in just mountains and water with the odd dwelling dotted here and there. Stunning photos! Then the drive across the bridge roadway, under the fjord to the islands and the fishing village sounds fascinating. Looking forward to more.
Travelling around was quite time consuming. As the crow flies, places are not so far apart, it’s the circuitous routes to get around the fjords which takes the time.
Your photos are stunning, the scenery is absolutely amazing, love the waterfalls! Last time we went we travelled by plane,train, boat, and bus to Tromso, but my suitcase went right up to Kirkiness only 10 miles from the Russian border. I had to make do with wearing the undergardener’s shirts until mine caught up with me 3 days later! I would love to go back, maybe we will one day.
Oh crikey! IR